As electricity and water make extremely bad companions, it pays to play safe at all times when installing fish tank equipment. A good rule is never to switch on any submersible aquarium equipment unless it is under water. Rather than have a jumble of cables to various pieces of aquarium equipment, the use of a ‘cable tidy’ is highly recommended. This neat box, which fixes to the side of the tank, is a miniature switching and power distribution centre. Supplies for equipment that works 24 hours a day, such as heaters, are not switched but those for lighting and pumps are.
The first, and most important, rule is: never take a heater out of water until it has cooled down. Also, never test a heater out of water; it will heat up very quickly and you’ll probably drop it and also burn yourself too. Mount a heater in the tank, so that it has enough water circulating flow around it; don’t lay it on the substrate. If you have a large tank, then split the tank’s heating requirements between two thermostat/heater units: this helps spread the heat evenly and faster through the tank and you’ve got a ‘back-up’ heater should one of the pair fail. Once the heaters are in place, connect them to the non-switchable terminals in the cable tidy, but do not switch the unit on.
Filters
Filters should be positioned in the tank so that the returning water is directed away from the filter’s immediate vicinity so that a water circulation pattern is established around the aquarium. This is easily achieved by turning the return spout on the filter or, in the case of external filters, the inlet and outlet connecting hoses can be at opposite ends of the tank. Some large external filters are equipped with a spraybar return that distributes the returning water over the surface of the water rather than through a single spout. This creates less disturbance in the tank.
For ease of maintenance, it’s a good idea to fit isolating taps in each of the connecting hoses to an external filter. These allow you to switch off the water-flow to, and from, the filter so that it can be removed for cleaning without the need for re-priming when re-connected again. Again, power cables for the filters can be connected to the relevant connectors in the cable tidy. Only switch on filters when internal types are fully submerged or external ones fully primed with water.
If an undergravel (biological) filter is used, fit the airstone into the uplift tube and connect it to the air-pump via a length of neoprene air-line making sure there is either an ‘anti-siphon’ loop made in its path or a non-return valve fitted. Either of these precautions will ensure water is not sucked back into the pump should a power cut occur. Failing that, site the pump above the tank. Marine aquariums are fitted with protein skimmers. These may vary in design and be used both inside or outside the tank. Outside models may necessitate the hood being cut to accommodate the units, whilst the dimensions of internal skimmers must be checked so that they fit not only inside the tank but also under the hood. Again, electrically powered models can be connected to the cable tidy but not switched on until the tank is full of water. Air-operated types must be connected to the air-pump and you must prevent back-siphoning for undergravel filters.
Although fitted, don’t expect the protein skimmer to do its job immediately. It will take a little time for the organic material to build up in the tank and this won’t happen until livestock have been introduced.
Dedi Walker is a writer and fish enthusiast. She shares additional information in sites such as Fish Tanks [http://cornerfishtank.com] and Raising Tilapia Fish [http://www.tilapiafish.net].
Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Dedi_Walker/713786